Why winter turnout is worth getting right

Winter turnout is essential for your horse’s physical and mental wellbeing. It keeps joints mobile, hooves healthy and boredom at bay. But British winters can turn even the best-managed paddock into a sea of mud. Poached ground, ice and relentless rain create real risks: slipped tendons, mud fever, lost shoes and stress. A safe paddock doesn’t happen by accident. It takes planning before the worst weather arrives. By managing grass, fencing and shelter, you can keep your horse comfortable and your field usable right through to spring. Think of it as setting up a winter-proof routine, not just reacting to the next downpour.

Protect your grass and ground

Grass is your best ally. A well-covered sward drains better and provides cushioning underfoot. In autumn, avoid overgrazing. Rotate fields if you can, letting each paddock rest for at least three to four weeks. If you only have one field, section it off with electric fencing. Create a sacrifice area near the gate – a small, hardcore or bark chip pad where your horse can stand without churning up the rest. Use grass reinforcement mats in gateways and along fence lines. Don’t turn out on frozen or snow-covered grass for long if your horse is prone to laminitis; frost raises fructan levels. Wait until the frost thaws. If ground is already poached, fence off the worst patches and reseed in spring. For very wet days, a woodchip or sand turnout pen can be a lifesaver. Consider spreading a few bags of woodchip over the muddiest spots – it’s cheap, absorbent and kinder on hooves than deep slop.

Fencing that stands up to winter

Check fencing before the ground freezes. Wooden posts can rot and electric tape can sag. Traditional post and rail is strong but can splinter; electric fencing is flexible but needs good earthing. For winter, use high-visibility tape or rope so your horse can see it against grey skies. Keep the bottom strand low enough to stop rolling under, but not so low it drags in mud. Gateways are pinch points. Fit a hardcore apron and a well-hung gate that doesn’t drag. If you use electric fencing, check the energiser and battery weekly. Never rely on a single strand in deep mud. A perimeter of post and rail with an inner electric strand is ideal. Also, ensure fencing is tall enough for your horse and that there are no sharp edges or loose wire. Walk the fence line after every storm – winter wind can bring down branches or loosen posts.

Shelter and windbreaks

Horses need somewhere to escape driving rain and wind. A field shelter with a good overhang and a dry floor is worth its weight in gold. If you don’t have one, plant or erect a windbreak. Hedges are best – native species like hawthorn and hazel. Artificial windbreak netting works too, but fix it securely. Position shelter so it doesn’t create a mud trap. An open front facing away from the prevailing wind is ideal. Inside, use rubber mats or woodchip. Make sure there’s enough space for all horses in the field; a shelter that’s too small causes bullying. Natural shelter from trees and hedges reduces wind chill. Remember, a wet horse in cold wind can chill quickly. Provide hay in the field to keep them warm from the inside – a large round bale in a ring feeder works well, but move it regularly to avoid a mud pit forming around it.

Daily management and routines

Winter turnout requires daily checks. Poo pick every day to reduce worm burden and stop grass dying. Break ice on troughs twice a day and check water isn’t frozen. Look at legs for mud fever – don’t hose off mud, let it dry and brush it off. If mud is deep, bring your horse in to dry legs. Rotate fields if possible; even a few hours on a drier field helps. Keep an eye on body condition. Clipped horses need rugs, but unclipped ones may overheat. Check daily for lost shoes, cuts or swelling. In deep mud, horses can pull shoes or strain tendons. Keep a hard standing area near the gate for grooming and the farrier.

• Break ice on troughs at least twice a day.
• Poo pick every field daily.
• Check legs for mud fever, heat or swelling.
• Look for lost shoes, cuts or loose rugs.
• Test electric fencing with a fence tester.

Finally, be flexible. If the field is dangerously icy, keep your horse in with extra hay and a dry bed, then turn out later when it softens. A little forward planning – and a willingness to adapt – will see you both through to milder weather with fewer vets’ bills and a happier horse.